Lisbon is having more than a moment. Once a hidden secret tucked away on the corner of Europe, Portugal’s sun-drenched capital has risen up like a phoenix from the ashes of the global recession to claim its mark and become one of the world’s hottest destinations. I’m excited to call Portugal my home for the month of May.
When I tell people I’m a full-time world traveler and writer, the first thing people ask is, how can you afford that? The truth, I scout out local secrets and budget-friendly tips. I share them all here on 48 hours in Lisbon.
Lisbon! It’s like a person you meet for the first time and feel like you’ve known forever. You wonder why she’s so trusting but then you realize it’s just her charm, she accepts you as you are and welcomes you with no judgment. She actually doesn’t even care what you think about her because she’s too busy creating, living, loving and reinventing herself, for her pleasure is in life, and being present for the unfolding.
When I asked locals’ must-do’s for visiting Lisbon, they simply said, “There are no must-do’s. It’s more of an experience, and wandering around in the discovery will give you what you need.”
Lisbon has a special charm that at first, will make you question her authenticity. How can she possibly be so kind, loving and beautiful — all at the same time? Soon you put down your skepticism and see that here, what you see is what you get.
It’s not insincerity, but the opposite, a genuine curiosity for life, and a deep passion for connecting with the human spirit. Lisbon, as well as the people who live here and visit, is pura poesia, “pure poetry.”
Whether your preference is food, culture, architecture or art, she draws her inspiration from the world. Pulling cues from San Fransisco, Sydney, New York, Paris, Havana, Naples, Victoria, and her neighbor to the east, Spain, it’s a collective hodgepodge of everywhere that has touched your heart. But realizing that Lisbon is one of the world’s oldest cities, it’s safe to say the rest of the world has actually found her to be their muse.
Lisbon is soft, pastel but shiny in a sugar-coated layer to please the masses. She knows what you need and will happily serve it up in any style you desire. It kind of makes you wonder if a city can actually become your best friend. If so, I may have just found mine.
48 Hours in Lisbon, Portugal
Friday
3:00 p.m. CRUISE THE CITY
Explore Lisbon’s famous and less-famous neighborhoods on a vintage bike. You’ll roll past the friendly faces, little shops and enjoy some of the most spectacular views. A great way to start your weekend in Lisbon, as you get oriented around the city. (€25)
7:00 p.m. MARKET FRESH FOOD
Located in a former grocery store, Taberna da Rua das Flores is not consumed with appearances. You walk in and wonder if you are in the right place. More of an old Lisbon tavern feel with tile floor and marble tabletops, the focus is on the daily market-driven cuisine. Each day the menu changes, written out on a large chalkboard that the server brings over to translate. The daily menu recently included wasabi-spiced oysters, and save room for Portuguese sheep’s-milk cheese for dessert. A satisfying dinner is about €25 a person (cash only). Make this the place you splurge, it’s worth every pretty penny.
Saturday
9 a.m. GET YOUR COFFEE FIX
In Portugal you won’t find lattes. Instead coffee, as in Italy, means espresso. For a larger variety of caffeinated options, start your morning at Fábrica Coffee Roasters. Established in 2015, this hip coffee shop has two cafés that serve traditional espresso shots as well as cold brews, pour-overs and here is one of the few places you can find a great latte. Put away your phone (there’s no Wi-Fi) and talk to new friends. (€3)
10 a.m. SUGAR RUSH
It’s impossible to come to Lisbon and not see the palm-size tart with creamy egg custard filling, the reigning queen jewel of Portuguese pastries, the pastel de nata. Pastelaria Alcôa, a standing-room-only pastry shop in the bustling Chiado district, is a little touristy but worth a try. Or head over to my favorite bakery in the city, Pasteis de Belem. Legend has it this is the original bakery that started it all. (€1.10)
12:00 GET INSPIRED — EXPRESS YOURSELF
Lisbon is in the top 10 cities of the world for street art, and with recent support from the government, the city is a walking art gallery. Take some time to really go into the heart of the movement with a street art walking tour. Trace the course of the city’s street art from its origins in Bairro Alto through to its contemporary representation in LX Factory. (€28)
4:00 p.m. CHIC ROOFTOP BARS — TAKE IN THE VIEW
Take in the entire city with thanks to the abundant new rooftop bars opened all around the city. Try out Topo Chiado is an open-air lounge serving cocktails to tables overlooking the castle and the neo-Gothic, wrought-iron Santa Just a Lift. For more high-in-the-sky nightlife, adventure over to the new fourth-floor hangout in the LX Factory area. Gaze out at a doppelgänger of the Golden Gate Bridge. (€2–4)
Sunday
9:00 a.m. ODE TO GORGEOUS BREAKFAST
Dear Breakfast offers all day breakfast. Can you say yes please? The menu features egg-centric dishes, delicious coffee (including iced coffee, which can be hard to hunt down in most European cities), tea, and fresh juices and smoothies. (€5-15)
11:00 a.m. EXPLORE ALFAMA
Give yourself time to get lost in the beautiful gem of Alfama district, one of Lisbon’s oldest areas. The streets are lined with cafés and shops selling traditional crafts. Passengers pack the historic no. 28 tram, which winds through Alfama on its way up to the 11th-century São Jorge Castle. It truly is Lisbon’s golden child and most charming gem.
2:00 p.m. NATIONAL TILE MUSEUM
One of the most special aspects of Lisbon is its architecture decorated with tiles called azulejo. Visit the Museu Nacional do Azulejo as it’s one of the most important of the national museums by the singularity of its collection. Azulejo is an artistic expression that differentiates Portuguese culture. The museum collection features decorative ceramic tiles, or azulejos, from the second half of the 15th century to the present day. Besides tiles, it includes ceramics, porcelain and faience from the 19th to the 20th centuries. (€5)
4:00 p.m. THE NATIONAL COACH MUSEUM
The Carriage Museum exhibits a collection of vehicles from the 16th to the 19th centuries. The collection includes a great variety of coaches made in Portugal, Austria, France and Spain that belonged either to the Portuguese Royal House, to the church and particular collections. In this museum one can appreciate sumptuous coaches with red velvet and gold interior and expertly carved exteriors, while understanding the evolution of the ways of transportation prior to motor vehicles. (€4-€10)
6:00 p.m. FX FACTORY
This historical industrial complex houses an array of arty retailers and unique restaurants. It’s good for shopping, good eats and drinks, but you will go over budget if you stay here too long. It is more for tourists, so be warned, you won’t be surrounded by locals. It’s worth the mention because of its cool tricked-out hip vibe, but when in Lisbon, I suggest you end your weekend with true culture and discover the heart of the city.
9:00 p.m. FADO MUISC
I admit, I was craving more substance, looking for the heart of the culture. It wasn’t until I experienced Fado music that I began to understand the rich history and layers of the Portuguese people. Sara Pereira, the director at Lisbon’s Museum of Fado says, “It’s a mirror of our identity, culture, and history, and you won’t hear it anywhere else.” Fado means “fate” or “destiny,” and is Lisbon’s version of the blues. The Fado style is Portugal in a beat.
Highlights:
For the taste buds:
Nightlife:
Getting around:
- 28 Yellow Tram
- Metro
- Walking
Museums & Tours:
Have you been to Lisbon yet? I’d love to hear about your must-do’s in the comments.
